With a nothing ventured, nothing gained mindset, I took a chance and tried the grilled octopus.
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I recently enjoyed an invitation to sample the culinary offerings at The Prawnery, which has transitioned from its Illovo roots to a vibrant new home at Rosebank’s Keyes Art Mile.
Initial impressions revealed an earthy aesthetic that is not merely sophisticated but beautifully balances contemporary refinement with a welcoming sense of comfort.
Naturally, my attention was drawn to the seafood selections while exploring the menu, which caters to both vegetarians and meat-lovers. I must admit a certain bias toward the prawn dishes. I will blame it on the mood I was in on that laidback Sunday.
This earthy aesthetic is not only sophisticated, but also achieves a beautiful balance between modern refinement and a cosy, inviting atmosphere.
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Co-owner Shaniel Naidoo approached for a pleasant conversation as I was narrowing my menu selections. She runs the establishment with her best friend Monwabisi Thethe.
As we bonded over a shared affinity for spicy food, she discussed the restaurant's history and vision. She also highlighted the particular dishes that have become firm favourites among the patrons.
With a melodic backdrop of classic R&B and smooth jazz rhythms setting the mood, my appetite was building for the starters.
The selection included a duo of the tuna Nigiri sushi, the creamy chilli garlic shrimp, and the grilled octopus - a dish that, with my picky palate, could be a culinary triumph or a total disaster.
Also, the waiter was kind enough to bring a side portion of their chilli, which I made a serious dent in before leaving.
The sushi selection was a culinary triumph, offering a level of deliciousness that was truly cravable.
As the garlic shrimp, it was plated beautifully with this creamy sauce at the bottom, accompanied by a small mountain of very skinny potato fries and a toasted focaccia bread that was to die for.
No, seriously, I could have wolfed down several slices, which were seasoned with sea salt and had just the right crunch.
However, the prawns were a tad overcooked. It happens. But it was hard to fault the flavour.
Admittedly, I wouldn’t normally order octopus. But after being told about how they prepare it, my curiosity got the better of me.
At first bite, that smoky chargrill essence comes through. This is enhanced by a topping of chimichurri and garlic crisps, served alongside a citrus rocket salad and a relish of burnt tomato and ginger.
Although I initially hesitated to order, it was prepared with such care that it left me without a single regret. Its delicate texture served as a perfect counterpart to the zesty salad, highlighting a thoughtful balance of textures.
It was clear that delivering a high-protein, low-calorie dish without compromising on bold flavour was a priority for the kitchen.
The seafood arrabbiata pasta from The Prawnery was absolutely divine — the ideal comfort meal for winter.
Image: Debashine Thangevelo
As I awaited the arrival of my main courses - the seafood arrabiata and the chilli coconut prawns - I snacked on their house-speciality milky soft roll. Sprinkled with jeera seeds, the roll was served with genuine butter and a side of chimichurri.
The prawns were prepared flawlessly on this occasion. The subtle notes of coconut and chilli were doing cartwheels on my palate.
But what really slapped, especially with the cold weather sending us all gravitating towards comfort food, was the pasta dish.
It was the epitome of indulgence: a rich, soul-warming dish, and a compelling reason for a return visit.
The baked cheesecake was truly sublime.
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To satisfy my sweet tooth, I opted for the baked cheesecake along with a cappuccino.
It is worth noting that I am a dedicated chocolate enthusiast, and after just one mouthful, it was clear that resistance was futile.
When I first read the description of this pièce de résistance - crusted in a chocolate brownie and served with a berry sorbet -the combination seemed unconventional. However, it proved to be a match made in heaven.
Throughout my visit, I found it impossible to overlook the kitchen's commitment to fresh ingredients and the careful precision applied to the flavour profiles on every plate.
Although the pricing doesn’t quite fall into the budget-friendly category, the unique experience makes it a splurge that is well worth the cost.
Disclaimer: The writer was invited as a guest of the restaurant; however, all opinions and content in this review remain entirely objective.
Debashine gives it 4 stars.
★★★★☆ (Very Good)
* Food: Delicious, well-prepared with some standout dishes.
* Service: Attentive, friendly and professional.
* Ambience: Pleasant, well-designed and comfortable.
* Value: Worth the price; good quality for cost.
You've been warned, the in-house baked breads and rolls are addictive.
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Could you introduce your new chef and describe any updates or refinements he has brought to the menu?
We are excited to be working with Neil Shunmugam, who is originally from Durban, has worked internationally, and currently calls The Prawnery home.
Chef Neil shares our passion for quality ingredients and bold, memorable flavours. His approach aligns perfectly with our philosophy of respecting great produce while introducing creativity and modern techniques.
Rather than completely reinventing the menu, we have focused on refining and elevating what our guests already love.
The ciabatta was exceptionally delicious. Given that you handle all baking on-site, could you explain the reasoning behind this approach and its impact on the guest experience?
Thank you! We’re incredibly proud of our pastry kitchen. Baking our breads in-house gives us complete control over quality, freshness and consistency.
There is something special about serving bread that has been baked on-site just before it reaches the table. For us, it's about paying attention to the details that guests may not always expect from a seafood restaurant.
What served as the creative catalyst for the specific taste profiles found in your vegetarian offerings?
We wanted our vegetarian dishes to be every bit as exciting and flavourful as the rest of the menu, rather than simply serving as alternatives or like an afterthought. We’re inspired by different kinds of cuisines and our belief that great food should be driven by flavour first.
We focus on layered tastes, interesting textures, and vibrant ingredients that create dishes guests will actively choose, whether they are vegetarian or not.